The following web site is a gallery only site for my personal TK Armor costume.
There is nothing advertised for sale on this web site, it is designed for informational purposes only.
The pieces displayed on this site are not a licensed product and are not endorsed or sponsored by any studio,
production company, or entertainment company. There is no mention of any specific film or film characters either real or fictitious.


It has been mentioned that a few builders are claiming the images on this site are their own product. Using similar acronyms or spelling, i.e., 'armour' instead of 'armor', or the letters M, T and or K instead of 'MyTKArmor'. Please be careful. If another builder is claiming these images as their product, please contact me for verification.


A Few Build Tips

Ear Pieces

There are several build options with this helmet, namely with the left ear piece.

On many screen used helmets, the gap between the ear piece and seam or ridge where the dome attaches to the face piece and helmet back piece varied greatly. On a resin cast screen helmet we were able to see, we noticed the right ear piece was mounted close to the dome line/seam.

The images below were taken from a screen used helmet recast which was modified slightly to cover the screws which held the ear pieces in place. I believe they placed wax over them prior to casting it to prevent from hurting it.

The above photos shows the right side ear piece, you can see how it  sits higher up.

The above photo shows the left side of a screen used helmet re-cast. You can immediately see the left ear piece was mounted slightly slower, approx. 3/8 of an inch.


The image on the left shows the TK helmet with the left ear piece lowered approx. 3/8 of an inch. The Image on your right shows the helmet with the ear piece placed nearly flush with the dome ridge/seam.

If you wish to mount the ear piece lower, you merely have to trim the left side of the helmet left front seam, where it is curved, just slightly lower. Actually, it's really easy, just continue the straight line cut downwards approx. 1/4 to 3/8 down. Then sand the curved region so the ear piece will cover it.

The red line above shows the area to trim. It's quite easy.



Another small trick to help is to carefully place a bolt and nut as shown above. You can then tighten as much as you wish, depending upon how you wish the finished appearance to be. Some fans prefer a deeper recess, some prefer a more shallow. If you wish to trim your left ear piece more shallow, bringing these two pieces together will help. Again, it's your preference.

The photo on your right shows the nut and bolt tightened just a little, whereas the photo on your left, show the nut and bolt being tightened even more. Perhaps a bit too much, but it's an option which is available to you. Personally, I feel this is a bit too much as I prefer the wonky non-symmetry on a stunt style helmet. Remember, take your time.

The above 2 photos help to explain where the nuts and bolts (screws) go and where rivets should be used. You do not have to use rivets, you can also use a small nut and bolt. A nut and bolt will allow for more adjustability and easier removal should you ever wish to modify the helmet later on or add customizations.

The left ear piece is partially trimmed and will need a slight bit of trimming to achieve the fit and clearance of your choice. You DO NOT have to use the inner screw hole dimples if you choose not to, most fans do as the build tolerance with those is a bit tight and custom fitting can be slightly more difficult and also the left ear cover will need to be sanded and fitted a little more. Again, you can build to your specifications.

Here you can see the left piece ready to be fitted and under the ear piece the nut and bolts as shown above has been carefully tightened just a little bit. A little sanding of the ear piece will be required as shown on the front and also the back (not shown). If you take your time, don't rush, you can really make this fit and cleanly as you wish.

Remember, use the dimpled recess on the bottom of the piece to mount the lower screw, but disregard the dimpled holes on the helmet front and back tube region. You can carefully adjust these as you wish and then drill new holes. Again, this is up to you.

Personally, I prefer the left piece dropped slightly, making it uneven or slightly non-symmetrical as compared to the right ear piece. This is your option.

The left piece is easier to fit if you are mounting just slightly lower than the right. Take your time on this one! It's difficult to make something to fit everyone's personal preference, so this option was built into this kit for this exact reason.

If you going to be mounting the left ear piece slightly lower, you will not be using the formed dimples, you'll be drilling two new holes where the ear piece 2-tapered screws will be pushed through.

Also, if you notice this cast helmet, you see the front edge of the left ear piece is not quite at a perfect 90 degree angle. The front edge of the left ear piece almost bends inwards slightly. Just a little!

If you examine the two images above, you will notice that the ear pieces are tilted back quite a bit more than most reproduction helmets. Another example of a screen helmet which was quickly assembled for filming.
This also brings to question exactly how much you want your ear pieces to be tilted. Many fans mount them so the small rectangle at the top is perfectly flat, prolongating the the helmet brow trim.

You can custom fit your ear pieces any way you wish.

The above photo shows how extremely shallow the lower tube regions of the screen used helmet were. This looks good on film, but absolutely terrible in real life convention situation where fans can easily see inside your helmet.
The ABS components with this particular helmet features a much deeper and more rounded tubular region, allowing the lower radius edge to be deeper, making the helmet appear better in real life. I prefer a slightly deeper edge.
This is your choice and you can trim as you wish.

If you examine the inside view of the resin copy, you can see how the inside of the helmet was not trimmed in a perfect circle. The opening is very oval shaped, making the helmet easier to wear, by some-what twisting the helmet. This means the helmet is placed with the wearers nose being pointed at the either the right or left ear piece and then the helmet is pulled on and carefully twisted, moving face piece in the front. The red circle shows how oblong the openings on some helmet can be.

You can trim the helmet opening as much as you wish. If your left ear piece looks slightly crooked, that is what the way some of the stunt helmets were assembled. By trimming the inner diameter slightly, you can easily bring the inner edge to the edge of the ear pieces and then install the black rubber trim. This will give the helmet a nice, clean, fitted appearance.

Remember, the lower portion of the left piece is an extremely tight fit and you may need a second set of hands to carefully push the tube sections into the ear piece. You do not have to use the dimpled hole markings for the two inner tubes. You can carefully push everything together as you wish and then drill through the two inner tubes after carefully marking them with a marker using the dimple/drilled hole on the bottom of the left ear piece.





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Last updated: 09/01/16.